Since my arrival, I’ve been looking into cooking classes. I realized the first time that I went into Lucia’s grocery store that I’d need to learn a thing or two. My first night here, I asked Lucia what I should make for dinner. There’s no frozen food section, and even if there was I don’t own a microwave. She gave me penne pasta, olive oil, an onion, a bunch of cherry tomatoes, freshly ground parmigiana, and figured I could handle the rest on my own. Since then, her combination has been a staple, along with bran flakes and yogurt, or bran flakes and nutella (it’s not that unhealthy - the bran cancels out the nutella, right?).
Anyway - I’ve been searching for cooking classes, and up until this morning had only found one. It costs 150 EUROS, lasts just two hours, and teaches you had to put together an antipasto plate and make spaghetti. It’s expensive, and really doesn’t sound all that exciting.
It was overcast today, and looked like it would pour any minute, so I postponed my trip to Paestum and instead went down to Mario’s restaurant for lunch. “Bellalena, comme via?” He greeted me, and immediately started firing off questions in Italian as I tried my best to keep up. I also realized that I think he thinks my name is Lena. In Italian, Leigh (Li or Gli) means “them”, “there,” or “the,” so it would make sense he thinks he either misheard me when I introduced myself, or thinks my name is short for something else. I didn’t realize this until an American woman complained that he didn’t call her Bellalena too, and he shot her a quizzical look and asked, “You’re name is Lena too?”
Mario doesn’t even ask what I want anymore, but instead just brings me the special of the day, or his favorite dish of the moment. Today it was bruschetta, penne pasta with zucchini, red wine, and a complimentary glass of limcello with a raspberry floating in it for dessert. Amazing.
When I was almost finished eating, I decided to ask Mario about a cooking class. And yes, I did have a slightly ulterior motive for asking him rather than Lucia or one of the girls. He thought for a minute and told me he had heard of one nearby, but didn’t know much about it, and thought it was expensive, and perhaps even closed at the moment. Then, as I’d hoped, he suddenly had a brilliant though: “You can learn to cook here!” He told me wait a minute, and then brought a woman over to the table, introduced us, and told her that I had enquired about cooking classes, and he thought it would be an excellent idea if I learned there. I learned she was the owner (apparently he’s not?), and she agreed that I could use their kitchen, and their staff would teach me how to make authentic Italian food. I thanked her profusely for the opportunity, and told her I knew how to boil pasta but that was about it (a slight exaggeration, but whatever), and I couldn’t wait to learn how to make their ravioli, lasagna, and fresh fish. I made sure to compliment their food and tell her it was the best I’d had in Positano. she acknowledged my compliments with a sincere “Grazie,” and said they would be glad to have me. “Our staff will certainly enjoy it,” she told me.
I can’t wait. 10:00 Monday morning, I’ll learn to cook real, Italian food, and work on my language skills as I do. Now I just need to find a scooter rental place and see if I can find a similar "internship" of sorts there - I’m sure they’ll need someone to test drive their Vespas to ensure they can make it to Rome and back, right?
Positano, Italy
Friday, February 26, 2010
Monday, February 22, 2010
A few photos
A few more reasons to love it here:
1. The Siesta Schedule : the entire town shuts down for two hours a day so people can leave work, go home, and take a nap and relax. Annoying for me as a tourist, but great for those working here.
2. Gelato. Enough said. I’ve become hooked.
3. Even when it’s gross outside and pouring down rain, the water is still an amazing shade of turquoise and beautiful to look at.
There was a parade yesterday for Carnival and the entire town was out for it. There were huge floats, Italian music blasting from them, and people dancing. The little kids all wore halloween costumes and were armed with silly string (some with shaving cream) and bags of confetti, and would squirt or throw it at any one who came near. Even the adults got into it, grabbing the cans of silly string from their kids and squirting one another with it.
The parade started at the top of the town and marched downhill to the town square, where I’d been told there was free pasta for everyone. I hung around there for awhile and then went down to my new favorite restaurant. I’ve been in a few times now and they know me. Mario - either the owner or the host - stands out front on the patio and always acts excited to see me and greats me with “Ciao Leigh! Beautiful girl! How are you today!”
I probably should know the name of the place by now, but I don’t. The restaurant sits right on the water, and there are about five dogs that seem to live there and visit all the tables on the outside patio, begging for food. Of course I always give it to them.
When I finished lunch it started pouring, so I hid out in the gelato place for awhile. I think I had the cookies and creme one yesterday. I didn’t now what the word meant in Italian, but it was good.
Anyway - so yea, things are still good here. And finally, some photos!
View of the city from my bus stop:
Priano, the next village over, taken from the beach.
1. The Siesta Schedule : the entire town shuts down for two hours a day so people can leave work, go home, and take a nap and relax. Annoying for me as a tourist, but great for those working here.
2. Gelato. Enough said. I’ve become hooked.
3. Even when it’s gross outside and pouring down rain, the water is still an amazing shade of turquoise and beautiful to look at.
There was a parade yesterday for Carnival and the entire town was out for it. There were huge floats, Italian music blasting from them, and people dancing. The little kids all wore halloween costumes and were armed with silly string (some with shaving cream) and bags of confetti, and would squirt or throw it at any one who came near. Even the adults got into it, grabbing the cans of silly string from their kids and squirting one another with it.
The parade started at the top of the town and marched downhill to the town square, where I’d been told there was free pasta for everyone. I hung around there for awhile and then went down to my new favorite restaurant. I’ve been in a few times now and they know me. Mario - either the owner or the host - stands out front on the patio and always acts excited to see me and greats me with “Ciao Leigh! Beautiful girl! How are you today!”
I probably should know the name of the place by now, but I don’t. The restaurant sits right on the water, and there are about five dogs that seem to live there and visit all the tables on the outside patio, begging for food. Of course I always give it to them.
When I finished lunch it started pouring, so I hid out in the gelato place for awhile. I think I had the cookies and creme one yesterday. I didn’t now what the word meant in Italian, but it was good.
Anyway - so yea, things are still good here. And finally, some photos!
View of the city from my bus stop:
Priano, the next village over, taken from the beach.
On the beach with Priano in the background
Thursday, February 18, 2010
Mishaps and Amalfi
Mishaps:
1. I blew up my hairdryer within 5 hours of being in Italy. I plugged it into the converter, saw the inside turn bright orange, and within seconds there was a loud pop and a little smoke. Since then I’ve gotten creative. I have a little bathroom heater (ironically, I think it’s identical to the one I had in my bathroom at home and in my office), and I’ve deemed it my makeshift hairdryer. It doesn’t work well, and I’m sure I look pretty lame using it, but it’s better than nothing.
2. I forgot to tell Wachovia I would be going abroad. They froze my bank account and didn’t reopen it until today. The even hung up on my dad when he called to tell them I was abroad with no money and no cell phone. A frozen bank account isn’t good under any circumstances, but especially when you need to pay rent. Thankfully Lucia was very nice and understanding.
3. I missed the bus three times in a row yesterday morning because I couldn't figure out where the bus stop was - literally missed it, in that I was standing there waiting for it to stop, and it kept going. My directions were, “Go 500 meters up the hill and you’ll see it on the right” and then “it’s in front of the red house.” But stops are not well marked here, I didn’t really know how far 500 meters was, and there were multiple red houses.
After I finally figured out where the bus stop was, I went over to Amalfi, another of the little towns on the Amalfi Coast, and the town for which the coast is named, obviously. It was a lot like Positano, only a bit flatter and more touristy - more stores, more restaurants, and busloads of tourists. Positano has lemon trees speckled throughout the town, but Amalfi was covered with them. There was a patch of about 300 of them, terraced into the cliff. They were netted due to the cold, but still pretty to see.
It was raining, but not hard, and it was still relatively warm. I spent the day walking around the town, got a SIM card for my cell, had a really good Italian lunch, and even got internet access. Unfortunately, wireless is pretty weak here. It’s like being back on dial-up: no uploading pics, no video chatting, no browsing website even. I’m still trying to figure out if there’s a better alternative; but it’s better than nothing at least, so I can’t complain.
I found the shortcut today from my apt to the beach - rather than take the winding road, I can just go straight down some steps - 328, to be exact. They’re pretty steeps, but it’s a great shortcut. I also found out that there is a Pescheria (fish shop) on the beach. From what I understood from the old Italian woman who told me about it, the fisherman go out early in the morning and then come back and sell their catch, and I should get there early to get a good piece. I’m going to check it out tomorrow morning.
I’ve taken a million pics and can’t wait to share them - hopefully soon!
1. I blew up my hairdryer within 5 hours of being in Italy. I plugged it into the converter, saw the inside turn bright orange, and within seconds there was a loud pop and a little smoke. Since then I’ve gotten creative. I have a little bathroom heater (ironically, I think it’s identical to the one I had in my bathroom at home and in my office), and I’ve deemed it my makeshift hairdryer. It doesn’t work well, and I’m sure I look pretty lame using it, but it’s better than nothing.
2. I forgot to tell Wachovia I would be going abroad. They froze my bank account and didn’t reopen it until today. The even hung up on my dad when he called to tell them I was abroad with no money and no cell phone. A frozen bank account isn’t good under any circumstances, but especially when you need to pay rent. Thankfully Lucia was very nice and understanding.
3. I missed the bus three times in a row yesterday morning because I couldn't figure out where the bus stop was - literally missed it, in that I was standing there waiting for it to stop, and it kept going. My directions were, “Go 500 meters up the hill and you’ll see it on the right” and then “it’s in front of the red house.” But stops are not well marked here, I didn’t really know how far 500 meters was, and there were multiple red houses.
After I finally figured out where the bus stop was, I went over to Amalfi, another of the little towns on the Amalfi Coast, and the town for which the coast is named, obviously. It was a lot like Positano, only a bit flatter and more touristy - more stores, more restaurants, and busloads of tourists. Positano has lemon trees speckled throughout the town, but Amalfi was covered with them. There was a patch of about 300 of them, terraced into the cliff. They were netted due to the cold, but still pretty to see.
It was raining, but not hard, and it was still relatively warm. I spent the day walking around the town, got a SIM card for my cell, had a really good Italian lunch, and even got internet access. Unfortunately, wireless is pretty weak here. It’s like being back on dial-up: no uploading pics, no video chatting, no browsing website even. I’m still trying to figure out if there’s a better alternative; but it’s better than nothing at least, so I can’t complain.
I found the shortcut today from my apt to the beach - rather than take the winding road, I can just go straight down some steps - 328, to be exact. They’re pretty steeps, but it’s a great shortcut. I also found out that there is a Pescheria (fish shop) on the beach. From what I understood from the old Italian woman who told me about it, the fisherman go out early in the morning and then come back and sell their catch, and I should get there early to get a good piece. I’m going to check it out tomorrow morning.
I’ve taken a million pics and can’t wait to share them - hopefully soon!
Wednesday, February 17, 2010
Day One
It was a long day of flying... 8 hours to Paris, a 3 hours layover in Paris, and then 2 hours to Naples, crammed in the window seat next to a man three times my size who couldn’t help but take up half of my seat. It was worth it though. If I had any doubts or reservations about coming to Positano, they quickly faded once I saw the Bay of Napoli, the beautiful trees, the buildings, and met the people.
My driver, Giovanni, was waiting for me at the airport when I arrived in Naples from Paris. Both suitcases made it (big sigh of relief) and I survived Naples. It took a little over an hour to get from Naples to Positano, but the drive was breathtaking, if not a bit nauseating from winding down curve upon curve. Lemon and orange trees lined the street, and when we weren’t in the center of town, we were on the edge of a cliff looking over turquoise water, listening to old Italian songs like Volare (at least I think that's what it's called) on the Italian radio station. Giovanni was an excellent tour guide, pointing out Mt. Vesuvius, Capri, telling me about the two sides of Pompei, and even showing me the best pizza restaurant in Sorrento. When I asked him where I could buy a phone in Positano, he actually gave me his phone! “I have a blackberry, I don’t really need this one” he told me. When he dropped me off at the apartment, I tipped him 10EURO for the phone, waiting for my when my flight was late, and just being a great driver - but he wouldn’t take it! “Leigh! You gave me too much! I’ll go get you your change.”
Lucia is the woman who owns my apartment and she was just as kind as Giovanni. She lives two apartments up from mine, and owns a little grocery store connected to the apartment building. “Think of me as your friend,” she told me when I arrived. “Your second mother. Anything you need, just ask. Now come with me - I’ll make you a sandwich.” I followed her into the store and she didn’t even ask what I wanted. Just threw together a tomato slices, fresh mozzarella, spices, and olive oil on Ciabatta bread. It was amazing.
She has two daughters, one 24 and one 17, who help run the grocery store and are just as sweet. My internet was not working when I arrived, so they brought me to their house to use theirs. When I asked where a bank was, where I could buy a SIM card, they told me they would take me tomorrow.
My apartment is lovely. The exterior is a peachy salmon color, and the interior is turquoise. I have a huge balcony off my bedroom and the den that overlooks the town. If you stretch your neck, you can also see the water. The town itself is actually built into the side of a cliff - bright colored building appear just stacked, one atop the other. There is just one main street here that winds down to the water - no matter where you go, you’re either walking up steps, down steps, or up or down a steep hill. It started raining tonight so didn’t get a chance to explore the town, but can’t wait to do so tomorrow.
It’s going to be a great two months here.
My driver, Giovanni, was waiting for me at the airport when I arrived in Naples from Paris. Both suitcases made it (big sigh of relief) and I survived Naples. It took a little over an hour to get from Naples to Positano, but the drive was breathtaking, if not a bit nauseating from winding down curve upon curve. Lemon and orange trees lined the street, and when we weren’t in the center of town, we were on the edge of a cliff looking over turquoise water, listening to old Italian songs like Volare (at least I think that's what it's called) on the Italian radio station. Giovanni was an excellent tour guide, pointing out Mt. Vesuvius, Capri, telling me about the two sides of Pompei, and even showing me the best pizza restaurant in Sorrento. When I asked him where I could buy a phone in Positano, he actually gave me his phone! “I have a blackberry, I don’t really need this one” he told me. When he dropped me off at the apartment, I tipped him 10EURO for the phone, waiting for my when my flight was late, and just being a great driver - but he wouldn’t take it! “Leigh! You gave me too much! I’ll go get you your change.”
Lucia is the woman who owns my apartment and she was just as kind as Giovanni. She lives two apartments up from mine, and owns a little grocery store connected to the apartment building. “Think of me as your friend,” she told me when I arrived. “Your second mother. Anything you need, just ask. Now come with me - I’ll make you a sandwich.” I followed her into the store and she didn’t even ask what I wanted. Just threw together a tomato slices, fresh mozzarella, spices, and olive oil on Ciabatta bread. It was amazing.
She has two daughters, one 24 and one 17, who help run the grocery store and are just as sweet. My internet was not working when I arrived, so they brought me to their house to use theirs. When I asked where a bank was, where I could buy a SIM card, they told me they would take me tomorrow.
My apartment is lovely. The exterior is a peachy salmon color, and the interior is turquoise. I have a huge balcony off my bedroom and the den that overlooks the town. If you stretch your neck, you can also see the water. The town itself is actually built into the side of a cliff - bright colored building appear just stacked, one atop the other. There is just one main street here that winds down to the water - no matter where you go, you’re either walking up steps, down steps, or up or down a steep hill. It started raining tonight so didn’t get a chance to explore the town, but can’t wait to do so tomorrow.
It’s going to be a great two months here.
Monday, February 01, 2010
Why Europe? Go Big or Go Home.
A little over a year ago I decided I needed a change - I needed to get out of Atlanta for a bit and experience a new city. I called my dad and told him I was going to move to New York. Rather than scoff at the idea, he took it up a notch. “If your goal is to get out of Atlanta for a year or so, go big or go home. What about Paris?”
Clearly the above isn’t verbatim, but you get the idea. And thus set into motion my plan to move abroad.
The original plan was to go to Paris for twelve months. However, as most of you know, I’m not big on planning in advance, and thus things have changed. As of now, I will spend my first two months in Positano, Italy (February 15 – April 15), then travel for a bit (Greece perhaps?) before settling in Paris May 1st… ish. Although, yesterday I was offered a house in Taupo, New Zealand for the month of May, so we’ll see…
Whatever happens, it will be a great 2010.
Clearly the above isn’t verbatim, but you get the idea. And thus set into motion my plan to move abroad.
The original plan was to go to Paris for twelve months. However, as most of you know, I’m not big on planning in advance, and thus things have changed. As of now, I will spend my first two months in Positano, Italy (February 15 – April 15), then travel for a bit (Greece perhaps?) before settling in Paris May 1st… ish. Although, yesterday I was offered a house in Taupo, New Zealand for the month of May, so we’ll see…
Whatever happens, it will be a great 2010.
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